My friend Josep is one of those people with ants in his pants. He is
never happier than when he is on the road – small side road, never
the major motorway. With him there is no shortage of destinations as
he knows every nook and cranny for miles around, including the nearby
southern part of France. His problem now is that that cute little Smart sports car of his is in the shop after he had a wreck. It’s been there
since before Christmas because it is a challenge to find parts for a rare car. Which is why, these days, he is
willing to ride in my plebeian cart and for me to do the driving.
The other day the
ants must have gotten the better of him, for he asked me if I had
ever been to Sant Quirze de Colera, probably guessing that I had
never even heard of it. A medieval monastery that sits in its own
small valley in the foothills of the Pyrenees is something one does
want to see.
You get there by
driving down a small local highway that has no number, and turning
onto another even smaller road that turns into a dirt road. Not to
worry. If you go slow enough and watch out for the large holes and
big rocks, you’ll be just fine.
The ride was lovely.
At the road’s end, in a small valley sat this spectacular 12th
century romanesque complex: church, cloister, monastery, and a
separate parish church. The original benedictine community settled
there at the end of the 8th century; the original church
was built in the 10th. Already in partial ruins, in 1592
it was closed and in 1598 it was sold and was turned into a farm. It
remained in that family until 1994. Sitting within the town limits
of Rabós, the family then
ceded the property to the town.
|
The parish church of Santa Maria |
|
Cloister |
|
Church of Sant Quirze interior |
When we Americans
think of a building being old, we think 200 years. In Europe, those
numbers are very different, but people here take it for granted. Our
apartment in Tarragona looked out at the old Roman wall of the city.
It was built in the 2nd century B.C. The church of Sant
Pere, here in Figueres, just celebrated it’s 1000th
anniversary. For that matter, Josep’s family has lived here for
many generations. On his mother’s side, the family comes from
Vilajuiga, not far from Rabós.
The name means Jewish town and his mother used to always say (or
joke) that the family is probably Jewish. That is probably even more
intriguing than a medieval monastery sitting in the foothills of the
Pyrenees.
(Photos taken with my cell phone)